The outdoor antenna for mobile signal: which one, where, and pointing where
The antenna is the part everyone sees and nobody understands. It is not roof decoration and it is not a magic box: it is the doorway the signal comes in through, and nearly all of an installation's result is decided in the thirty centimetres where it is placed and the degrees it is aimed at.
An antenna on its own gives your phone nothing
This is the most expensive misunderstanding in the trade, and it is worth clearing up first. An outdoor antenna collects signal, but your phone has nowhere to plug it in. For it to be of any use, what it collects has to be put back into the air inside the house, and that is the booster's job — the part that transmits and the part that needs the operator's authorisation. An antenna with no booster is a pole on the roof.
The other thing called a '4G antenna' is the one that screws onto a router with a SIM card. That is a different product, it is home internet, and it is not what we do: we install no routers and we create no WiFi networks.
Directional or omnidirectional
An omnidirectional antenna listens in every direction at once. It is convenient because there is nothing to aim, and it is worse in nearly every case we meet here: it listens equally to the good mast and to all the surrounding noise. A directional one — a yagi or a panel — listens in a narrow cone. Aimed at the right mast it hears far more and hears far less noise, which are the two things you need.
That is why the job is not 'putting up an antenna' but finding which way. It is done with a meter on the roof, turning slowly and noting which mast appears at each bearing. In a town below a sierra the best answer is usually in the opposite direction to common sense: not towards the nearest mast, which is behind the rock, but towards another one in plain view even if it is twice as far. A weak clean signal works; a strong bounced one does not.
Height, cable and wind
- Height. Getting the antenna above the ridge of the roof and above the neighbour's house changes the result more than changing the model of antenna does. What you are after is line of sight, not metres for their own sake.
- The cable. Every metre of coax gives back part of what the antenna had gained, and it gives back more on the higher bands. The installation is planned so the run is as short as possible, not so the box sits where it is convenient to plug in.
- Fixing and wind. The levante blows here and so does the poniente. An antenna that moves a few degrees stops pointing where it was set, and the installation degrades on its own within a couple of months with nobody knowing why.
- Earthing. You are putting a tall metal object at the highest point of the house: it gets earthed and the down-lead gets protected. It is not optional.
- Separation between the outdoor and indoor antennas. If they can hear each other the whole thing feeds back on itself and stops working. It is one of the reasons a kit bought and placed by eye usually gives no result.
Where the antenna goes depending on your type of home
The job is not the same in a villa as on a fourth floor. What changes is where the signal is picked up, how many antennas are needed indoors and — this surprises a lot of people — how many people you have to ask for permission.
In a villa on an urbanisation. The roof is yours, so you decide where the antenna goes and which way it points: that is half the job, and it is the easiest case. What usually complicates it is something else. Urbanisations are built in one go and on the edge of town, every house is the same height — none blocks another, but none rises above the rest either — and between the ground floor and the first there is a reinforced concrete slab, which is what cuts the signal between floors. That is why the indoor antenna usually ends up in the stairwell or the hall: from there it covers both. It is worth checking the urbanisation's rules first, because some of them say what may be visible from the street.
In a flat. Here you need two permissions, not one. There is no roof of your own: the place to pick up the signal is the façade, your own terrace or the communal roof — and the communal roof is a communal element. On top of the operator's authorisation you have to go through the owners' association, and the cable cannot run wherever it likes. We say so before charging for the survey, because it is the step that most often delays an installation in a block. In exchange, the signal outside is usually good here: the enemy is not distance, it is the concrete in the walls and, in recent builds, the metal-coated glass in the windows, which reflects signal the same way it reflects heat. In an inner flat or on a ground floor the effect is twice as noticeable.
In a town house between party walls. It is long, narrow and joined to its neighbours on both sides, so signal can only come in through the street façade and the yard at the back. The front room usually works; the kitchen and the back bedrooms do not. Old load-bearing walls, solid brick or rubble masonry, eat considerably more signal than a modern partition, and a narrow street blocks the line of sight at ground level even when the view from the roof is perfect. Here it is normal to need more than one indoor antenna, because a single one does not reach from the façade to the yard.
In an isolated country house. It is where we say no most often. Outside the built-up area the nearest mast can be several kilometres away, and the only usable thing is often the 800 MHz band, which travels far but arrives worn out. The pole sometimes has to rise above the roof to clear a terrace bank or a line of trees, earthing and lightning protection stop being a detail, and the power supply is not always steady: it is the one situation where we genuinely recommend the backup battery. And it is also where the survey most often ends in there being nothing to boost: if there is no signal on the roof, we do not manufacture it.
This describes the four cases we run into most around here, not a rule: some houses are all four at once. Each town page says which ones predominate in that municipality.
We measure › We ask for authorisation › We install › We test
We measure
Indoors, outdoors and on the roof, with a meter. If nothing can be done, we say so before starting.
We ask for authorisation
From your operator, in writing and in your name. Without it nothing is installed, and you pay for no installation.
We install
Aimed outdoor antenna, booster and indoor antenna. Half a day.
We test
We measure again in the same spot and make a call with you before we leave.
Questions about this
Can I put the antenna up myself and call you for the rest?
Do I need permission from the residents' association?
Is it very visible?
Shall we take a look at your roof?
The survey is the measurement from the roof, with a meter, and it ends with a yes or a no in writing. It costs 49 € and is free if you go ahead.
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